Crochet Bookmark Pattern

Oh look, I’m here with another pattern-that’s-not-a-pattern because the instructions I write are always wish-washy.

This time it’s for a bookmark, because I like reading and I like crocheting and this little project serves two hobbies at once. (I also like beads and fringe.)

Also, something is wrong with me and I like to have a bookmark that matches the book (especially if it’s a book I love).

**This pattern is written in American English and is free on purpose. If you want to sell what you’ve made from this pattern go for it, but don’t try to sell the goddamn pattern.**

Alright. What you’ll need:

🌿 crochet thread

🌿 a tiny crochet hook (mine’s 2.75mm)

🌿 scissors

🌿 a few beads (optional)

🌿 a needle that will fit through your beads

This stitch is easily adjustable. Your starting chain just has to be a multiple of 3 +2. I chained 11 (3×3 and +2).

1. Chain 3 more (these ch3’s count as a DC here and throughout) and DC in the fifth ch from the hook. DC in each ch across. (10 DC plus the beginning ch3)

2. Ch3 and turn. Skip 2 stitches (the one your ch3 is taking up and one more), then DC, ch1, DC in the next stitch. *skip 2 st, DC, ch1, DC in the same stitch* Repeat until you have one stitch and the previous row’s turning chain left. Skip the stitch and DC in the top of the turning chain.

3. Ch3 and turn. Put 3 DC’s in each chain space from the previous row, and end with a DC in the turning chain.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until desired length, ending with a final Row 3. I kept going until I had ten rows of the V stitch.

Ch1 and turn your work horizontally. You’ll be crocheting down the side. Stick two loose sc’s in the edge of each row.

This gives it a nice edge. When you get the end of this side, ch3 (to “turn the corner” and crochet evenly across the bottom. Ch3 and sc up the other side, ch3 and sc across the top. Ch3 to turn the final corner and slip stitch to your first sc. Finish off and weave in ends.

You can stop here if you want. You can block it or starch it. I won’t because I’m lazy as fuck.

Personally, I like to have something poking out the top of the book. Hence I do the beads and tassle.

Cut a piece of your thread about two feet long. (You won’t use this much really, but you want extra.)

Using your crochet hook or your needle, put the thread through the middle two sc’s at the top of your bookmark. Like this:

Thread both the loose ends onto your needle. Your thread needs to be doubled up. Thread your beads on and push them down toward the bookmark.

Tie a knot down close to the last bead, but make sure it’s loose enough that your beads have room to lay over.

Now for the tassle.

Find something to wrap thread around that’s about the same size you want your tassle. A bottle, your phone, your hand, it doesn’t matter. Wrap it 50 times.

(I’m using a little sewing needle case.) Cut the thread and snip all the way through one side of your 50 wraps. This leaves you with 50 pieces of thread that are roughly the same size.

Knot your tassle strips together with the two pieces of thread you’ve got your beads on.

Tie it tightly right in the middle. Then fold your tassle pieces in half.

Using the threads you tied the bundle of tassle pieces together to the bookmark, knot them hard around all of the tassle pieces. This forms your tassle.

You can do this as carefully or as shittily as you want. As you can see, I’ve demonstrated doing this shittily.

Attach your needle onto your two long threads and tuck them down through the knot so they become part of the tassle.

Trim your tassle nice and even. Or don’t. Um…then I guess use your bookmark.

Or, you know, make another in a different color to match a different book.

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Tarot Mat with Pocket Crochet Pattern

Free pattern, bitches.

This is more of a recipe than a pattern, mostly because decks are all different sizes and people’s preferences and all that shit.

Anyway, this pattern is for a tarot case that rolls out into a little mat for a three-card reading. 

Now for this bullshit: This pattern is written using US terms. Do not try to sell this pattern, as I am posting it here FOR FREE on purpose.

Here’s what I have:

The deck I want my case to fit

Needle for weaving in ends

Worsted yarn

An H 5mm crochet hook

I recommend an H hook for this pattern, unless your yarn is a particularly thin worsted, then go down to a G. We want this nice and tight. (The ball band is long gone, but I’m pretty sure the yarn I have is Paton’s Classic Worsted.) 

The texture of this pattern is created by the sedge stitch.

Create a slip knot, leaving an 8 to 10 inch tail (for sewing up one side later).

Chain a multiple of three. (You want to have this be a bit longer than the long side of your deck.) Here, I chained 21.

HDC in the SECOND CHAIN from the hook. This one:

The chain you skipped counts as the first SC of the first cluster here and throughout.

DC in the same stitch.


*Skip 2 CH, SC HDC DC all in the same stitch.* Repeat until you have one chain left. SC in the final chain.

Your first row will kind of look like shit, as first rows often do.

CH 1 and turn. (This chain counts as your SC for the first cluster.) Then HDC and DC in the very first SC from the previous row.

*Skip two stitches and SC, HDC, DC in the same stitch.* Each cluster should be in the SC’s from the previous row. If not, you fucked up somewhere. Finish the row with a SC in the turning chain from the previous row. This is kind of a bitch to find, so I just stab it in there somewhere.

It will probably be 4 or 5 rows in until you really start to see the pattern.

Now just keep going, the sedge stitch is a one row repeat. 

Test it every once in a while to see how it’s coming along. Once it’s long enough to wrap comfortably around your deck once, you’re about half way finished with this part.

Continue until you can wrap your deck once in your piece and lay out three cards on it like this:

Just for reference, my piece is 17″ at this point. Now we’ll begin decreasing.

CH 2 and turn. Skip the first SC and next two stitches, then put your SC, HDC, DC in the next SC. Like this:

I basically skipped the first cluster of the row. We’ll be decreasing one cluster on each side each row. So continue with your clusters until you have two clusters left.

SC in the next SC, leaving the last cluster of the previous row unworked.

CH 2 and turn. Skip the first SC and the next two stitches. SC, HDC, DC cluster in the next SC. Put clusters in each SC until there are two clusters left, then place a SC in the next SC, leaving the last cluster of the previous row unworked.


Repeat decreasing rows until you’re down to either one or two clusters (this depends on how many you chained to begin with). Finish off.

Now, bust out your needle and attach it to that 8 to 10″ tail you left at the beginning. Fold up the bottom edge of your piece, using your deck to measure, and whip stitch along one side to form the pocket that your deck goes in.

Attach a length of yarn to the other side and whip stitch the other side of the pocket. Weave in all your ends. 

It should look something like this. From here, it’s just a matter of finishing touches. You could add a button closure, a long chain to wrap around it, beads, fringe, patches, appliques, whatever shit you want on it.

How I Made My Frame Loom

I’ve got people asking me left and right how I made the simple frame loom I posted on my Instagram account, and I’m happy to share.

This is not an original idea. I’m about 90% positive that other people have done this too.

Also, this is not a tutorial on actual weaving. I don’t know nearly enough about it to tell other people how to do that. Here’s what you’ll need:

A wooden picture frame

Small nails

A hammer

Ruler or tape measure

 

The loom I made:

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This bitch cost me $6.99. Mind you I already had nails and a hammer, but you get the idea. First, I went to a thrift store and looked for a wooden picture frame. I went with a larger one, but it’s up to you. Too small and it’ll be a bitch to work on though.

Here it is from the “front” side of the frame.

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The “front” of the picture frame is the “back”of my loom. Know why? Because the back side was lighter and flat and easier for me to fucking measure and write on. This shit doesn’t have to be complicated.

I took the glass and shit out of the frame (obviously).

I measured and marked the places for my nails on the shorter sides of the frame. I did mine 3/8ths of an inch apart because I’m a pain in the ass. If you do 1/4″ you’ll probably have to stagger the nails, and I felt like 1/2” was too far apart.

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That’s it.

Now as far as actual weaving and the tools you need for it, I’m not the person to ask. Google that shit.